Todo Va Bien in Sayulita

When you work from home, sometimes a change in scenery is welcome. Away from Home is Home-Werk’s semi-regular column exploring travel and getaways. This mid-week, we explored the quaint and colorful surf town of Sayulita. Read on for our guide on where to stay, nosh, and surf.

Sayulita used to be one of Mexico’s best kept secrets, but since “The Bachelor: Paradise” filmed here and the Mexican Tourism Board named it a “Pueblo Magico” in 2015, an increasing number of tourists have discovered this idyllic fishing village. Located in a protected bay, the town stretches up the surrounding hillsides. Colorful “papel picado” and technicolor pom poms adorn the streets and treetops in the main square. Bars and restaurants spill onto the streets. As borders and air travel start to open back up, tourism in Sayulita is expected to pump through the summer. Some say Sayulita is like Puerto Vallarta was in the 1960s right now. We just hope it maintains its charm and keeps an eye on development. While we’d love to keep it to ourselves, our enthusiasm is hard to rein in; if you’re looking for a bohemian place to surf in warm water, eat well, and chillax, well, Sayulita is truly next level.

WHERE TO STAY

Set on luxury accommodations? Head to Punta Mita. You can choose from an authentic pied-a-terre to boutique hotels or fully appointed vacation rentals in Sayulita. These are a few of our faves.

Villas Sayulitas

Located on the northern side of the “bridge,” Villas Sayulitas is a family-owned, authentic hotel on the outer fringes of the action. But nothing is really that far in Sayulita, so it’s a few quick steps to the beach or a 10 minute walk along the shady streets and through the artisanal market to get to the center of town. Stay in the roof top palapa penthouses, wake to the sounds of the parrots each morning, and enjoy the quiet at night. The young family that owns it is updating it slowly. Take breakfast in the private courtyard, enjoy ridiculously good acai bowls from their smoothie bar, and shop at Quiut (pronounced Cute), the lovely proprietoress’ bespoke design shop featuring work by local designers, including herself (She went to industrial design school in Argentina and designed murals in the penthouse palapas)!

Sayulinda Hotel

If you prefer the boutique hotel experience and want to be in the thick of it, check out Sayulinda Hotel. Debuting in early 2021, this burnt sienna monolith is hard to miss. At the time of our visit, the elevators were not yet running but hoofing it up to the roof is absolutely worth it for expansive 360 degree views of the bay and surrounding hillsides. Up top you can sip on cocktails and watch the sun set from the infinity edge pool, or lounge in cabanas. The people-watching is prime and the rooftop becomes quite the scene.

WHERE TO EAT

The culinary scene in Sayulita is on-point. From the traditional beachside palapa-topped tourist traps to the hole in the wall walk-up windows to the new generation of modern eateries, there is nothing not to love about this place.

Barracuda
Barracuda is a great place for classic seafood. There are two locations, one beachside and one in the middle of town on the main pedestrian thoroughfare. Get the molcajete….it’s life-changing. The secret to a fantastic molcajete is definitely in crushing the peppers in the stone pestle to make the rich and flavorful sauce. The way that the cheese gradually melts into the smoking hot pot is amazing and your dish stays warm well past the point you’ve polished it off!

Achara
Located in a narrow building, Achara is perhaps one of the most notable surprises in Sayulita. Eat street-side or sit inside where the mouth-watering scents from the open kitchen will convince you to over-order. The best seat in the house is the open-air booth at the back of house. This is literally the best Thai food this side of Bangkok. Our favorite dishes were the tom kha gai and the mahi mahi satay.

La Rustica
This open-air eatery is the closest you’ll come to a franchise here. La Rustica is modern and trendy. You’ll need to make a reservation or be prepared to wait for a seat. It’s sister location is in Punta Mita. With pizzas, cocktails, and handmade pastas, it’s definitely a local favorite. Our favorite dish - if we had to choose just one - were the Palomitas de Camaron. Crunchy, spicy…perfect salinity to wash down with a Chilean sauvignon blanc.

WHAT TO DO

When you’re done with emails and zooms from the palapa and you’re officially off the clock, Sayulita is an outdoorsy paradise. Our favorite part was renting a golf cart and cruising around on a Friday night.

Lunazul Surf Shop
There are tons of great breaks for every level in and around Sayulita but you need to know where to go. Your first stop whether you’re renting boards, perfecting your pop-up, or chasing big waves should definitely be Lunazul Surf Shop. One of the original surf outfits in Sayulita, this spot is owned by pro-surfer Kalle Carranza, his girlfriend, and his parents. They’ll help you gear up and give you a ride to the best secret surf spots. If the swell is right, try to hit La Lancha with the Lunazul crew. Worth a quick walk through the jungle, La Lancha is a paradise that the Four Seasons Punta Mita almost succeeded in privatizing (boooooo!) Thankfully, in this case, Goliath lost and David won. The community united and La Lancha is still open to all.

Horse Riding with Hotel Adventure
If you have a fear of big animals, then obviously avoid this. But if you’re like us and obsessed with the grace and power of horses, then pop into Hotel Adventure for a sunset ride. They’ll pick you up from your hotel in an open-sided truck and take you back to their inland location which also happens to house a zipline course. Ride through across the main highway and through the jungle to pop out on a beautiful beach where you can ride in the surf and gallop across the sand. You’ll also parade through town on your way back, which is a bit less exhilarating.

Evoke the Spirit
Sayulita is home to surf shops, cute boutiques, and a plethora of art galleries. One of our favorite shops was Evoke the Spirit which features stunning one-of-a-kind pieces by indigenous artists; ceramic skulls with intricately in-laid colorful thread. The Wixarika of the Sierra Madre Occidental Mountains in Northern Mexico believe that artistic expression is an offering to the great spirits of the five sacred directions, that each of their creations is made in the service of prayer. This yarn painting collaboration honors the spirit of their sacred endeavors, while incorporating other symbols, colors, and imagery found in Mexican art, craft, and lore. Not to mention other textiles, jewelry, and ceramics. Evoke the Spirit is owned by a reformed New Yorker, Brittney Borjeson.

PALU

Palu " Art for your Heart" is a gallery + boutique housed in a vintage airstream in downtown Sayulita. When artists Paulina Gutierrez and Ana Luna were looking for a space, they found the perfect open lot between two buildings on the main street through Sayulita. Instead of hiring people, they acquired an old Airstream and totally remodeled it on their own. Palu represents the works of Gutierrez and Luna including paintings, prints, and ceramics. The gallery also features gorgeous photography by a local artist. You can tell Gutierrez’s work is distinguished by its the bold strokes, Luna’s by its delicate brushwork. Both artists offer up grounded, exuberant, and heartfelt expressions of the beauty and bounty of tropical Sayulita.

GETTING THERE

Take a quick flight to Puerto Vallarta and a 45-minute taxi ride north. While you’re there, we highly recommend renting a golf cart to zip around town.